Method and apparatus for producing novelty fabrics



Nov. 2 1926. 1,605,539

J. GIARDINO METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR P'R'ODUCING NOVELTY FABRICS Filed March 25, 1925 4 f, 'l l 006001000099@ f' 0 0 0 Q 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 (9 G 0 UI Z1' 3v 1.4,

o," in) Patente-d Nov. 2, 1925.

STATES JOACHIM GIARDINO, OF WEST NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY.

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR P RODUCING NOVELTY FABRICS.

Application filed March 25, 1925. Serial No. 18,137.

This invention relates to looms and particularly to a novelty velvet loom constructed to reproduce on a suitable ground weave, ornamental or characteristic designs in velvet on said ground or in the reproducwtion of projecting ornamented designs of any kind or class on a suitable ground; and the object of the invention is to provide an apparatus of the class specified which is so constructed and operated as to weave the fabrics in such manner as to produce the velvet or other designs on a ground weave; a further object being to provide means whereby two fabrics are woven and fashioned in the manner set out, means being provided to sever the separate fabrics, said means also controlling` the thickness of the pile or velvet weave on the separate fabrics; a further object being to provide an apparatus for weaving between the ornamental piles a removable pile thread bound on an eXtra filling; and with these and other objects in view, the invention consists in an apparatus of the class and for the purpose specified, which is simple in construction and operation, eiicient in use and which is constructed as hereinafter described and claimed.

The invention is fully disclosed in the following specification, of which the accompanying drawing forms a part, in which the separate parts of my improvement are designated by suitable reference characters in each of the views, and in which Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a loom indicating the several parts thereof in connection with which my invention relates.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic plan view of a part of the construction shown in Fig. 1 and illustrating the method of its operation.

Fig. 3 is a sectional detail view of a knife and spacing member which l employ and indicating the method of its use.

Fig. 4L is a detail view of a piece of fabric diagrammatically illustrating a design thereon; and,

Fig. 5 is a partial section on the line 5-5 of Fig. l on an enlarged scale and diagra1nmatically illustrating the arrangement of the several pile threads employed.

In Fig. 1 of the drawing l have indicated at 10, the usual reed frame constructed and operated in the usual or any desired manner in apparatus of the class specified, and at 11, l have shown the beam from which the loop pile warp is taken, said pile warp passing around spaced rollers 12 and 13 and through a ring or series of rings 14 positioned between said rollers, said ring or rings being at one end of a tension spring 15, the other end of said spring being connected with a bar 16 mounted on a shaft 17, the operation of the bar being controlled by acam-shaped member 18 having a toothed face 19 in connection with which a pointed finger 2O is adapted to operate, the finger 20 being mounted on a lever 21 pivoted as shown at 22, one end portion of said lever having a belt 23 which passes over the beam 11 and is provided at its end with weights 24 to give tension to the warp, while other weights 25 pass over the beam to prevent backing of the warp in the operation of the apparatus. A weight or weights 26 are also employed on the bar 16 to cooperate with the spring 19 to regulate the tension of the pile warp 27 for the beam 11. Connected to the other end of the lever 21 is a spring 28 which connects to the jack of the dobby or hook of the jacquard through a link or the like 29.

rlhe above described construction is shown for the purpose of illustrating one use of the invention, but it will be understood that l am not necessarily limited to the specific arrangement of the parts, described, and in practice l employ in connection with the said apparatus or similar apparatus a pile control and cutting member 30 located at one side of the reed frame as indicated in Fig. 1 of the drawing and over which the fabrics or lay of the fabrics are adapted to pass, it being understood that two independent fabrics are woven by the apparatus and are spaced apart and severed by the member 30. The member 30, in the construction shown, comprises two elongated plates 31 and 32, the rear end portions of which are spaced apart by a spacing and backing plate 33, which forms at the front end of the member 30 a longitudinal recess 3a in which a cutterl blade 35 is mounted to normally project the cutting edge 36 thereof beyond the front ends of the plates 31 and 32, said blade being movable longitudinally of said plates and in the recess 34.. The plates 31 and 32 are secured together by a number of screws or bolts'37 which pass through elongated apertures V38 in the spacing and backing plate 33 whereby an adjustment of the plate 33 is provided in and between the plates 31 and 32.

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l also employ means for actuating or reciprocating the cutter' blade 35 which consists of spaced levers 39 and l0 pivotcd respectively as shown at 4l and a2, said levers being coupled with the blade 35 and being actuated by means 43 actuated by the dobby of the apparatus through linls stel and l5 coupled with the arms of the dobby and said levers 39 and l0 respectively.

lilith this construction, it will be understood that as the fabrics are woven, the same pass over the member and are severed one from the other by the cutter blade which shears the pile warp 27 as indicated in Fig. 3 of the drawing.

ln Fig. 5 of the drawing, l have diagraminatically illustrated on an enlarged scale, the arrangement of the pile warp as it is woven in the separate fabrics in the formation of ornamental designs on a suitable ground, it being preferred that the raised or ornamental production be in the form of a velvet and constructed from the pile warp. frs seen in Fig. 5 of the drawing, the pile warp on the ground where the design is to be located extends upwardly around one iilling of the fabric as seen at X at the left of Fig. 5 of the drawing, downwardly and around the next adjacent filling X2, then upwardly and around the next adjacent filling X3, then traversing the space between the separate fabrics as seen at A then outwardly and around the filling Y of the other fabric, inwardly and around the next adjacent filling Y2 and outwardly around the eilt adjacent filling Y3, and then trav- `ersing the space between the fabrics as seen at A2. This operation continues through the entire section of the fabrics to be ornaniented and when traversing a space or section of the fabrics which is not to be ornainented, the pile warp, for example, the warp A?, Fig. 5, extends upwardly and around an extra filling E of one fabric, traversing the space between the fabrics and around an extra filling F on the other fabric, and so on as seen in the central portion of Fig. 5 of the drawing until the same is eX- tended into an ornamental pile of the warp in the manner above described and which is shown at the right of F ig. 5 of the drawing. rlhe method of weaving the pile warp around the fillings X, X2 and X3 and likewise around the lillings Y, Y2 and Ya operate to loch the pile threads in the separate fabrics against displacement after the pile warp traversing the space between the separate fabrics is sheared or cut as seen in Fig. 3 of the drawing. ln this shearing and cutting operation, the pile warp extending over and around the extra fillings E and F is also sheared and the latter pile warps and lilliiigs are removed as will be apparent, leaving a plain and unobstructed ground between the designs or ornamentations formed on the pattern which is controlled by the usual patterns in apparatus of the class specified.

By providing the adjustment of the spacing and backing plate 33, the cutter blade 35 or the edge 36 thereof may be extended at any time by simply advancing' the backing plate in and between the plates 3l and lt will be understood that the plate 33 will be of slightly greater thickness than the blade 35 to permit of the free action of said blade in the member 30. lt will also be understood that the spring l5 will maintain the required tension on the pile warp at all times to control and regulate the proper weaving thereof, and it will also be understood that while l have described my invention as particularly adapted for use in producing what l term novelty velvet fabrics or fabrics in which ornamental or characteristic designs are reproduced in velvet on a suitable ground, that I am not necessarily limited in this respect and various changes in and modifications of the apparatus herein shown and described and the method herein set out, may be made within the scope of the appended claims without departing' from the spirit of my invention or sacrificing its advantages.

Having fully described myv invention, what l claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

l. ln an apparatus of the class described for weaving tvo fabrics joined by a pile warp, a spacing member for spacing the fabrics one from another and for controlling the hei-clit of the pile warp, said member comprising two plates, means for coupling 'the plates together in spaced relation to forni a recess therebetween and a cutter blade iovaiily mounted in said recess and guided by said member.

for weaving two fabrics joined by a pile warp, a spacing member for spacing the fabrics one from another and for controlling the height of the pile warp, said member comprising two plates, means for coupling the plates together in spaced relation to form a recess therebetween, a cutter blade movably nrounted in said recess and guided by said member, and means for actuating said cutter blade.

3. ln an apparatus of the class described for weaving two fabrics joined by a pile warp, a spacing member for spacing the fabries one from another and for controlling the height of the pile warp, said member comprising two plates, means for coupling the plates together in spaced relation to form a recess therebetween, a cutter blade movably mounted in said recess and guided by said member, means coupled with end portions of said cutter blade for actuating the saine, and adjustable means positioned 2. in an apparatus of the class described between the plates of said member providing a backing for said cutter blade.

4. In an apparatus of they class described for weaving two fabrics joined by a pile warp, a spacing member for spacing the fabrics one from another and for controlling the height of the pile warp, said member comprising two plates, means for coupling the plates together in spaced relation to form a recess therebetween, a cutter blade movably mounted in said recess and guided by said member, means coupled with the end portions of said cutter blade for actuating the same, adjustable means positioned between the plates of said member providing a backing for said cutter blade, and for projecting the cutting edge of said blade ben yond one side edge portion of said member.

5. In an apparatus for weaving two fabrics joined by a pile warp, a cutter device for severing the fabrics by cutting said pile warp, said device comprising two elongated plates, spaced apart by an intermediate and adjustable plate, all of said plates when coupled together forming a spacing member for spacingthe fabrics one from the other and for controlling the height of the pile warp, a cutter blade positioned between the first named plates and forwardly of the intermediate plate, said intermediate pla-te forming a backing, a gage for adjusting the knife edge of the cutter blade with reference to the adjacent edges of the first named plates and to project the same therebeyond. 6. In an apparatus for weaving two fabrics joined by a pile warp, a cutter device for severing the fabrics by cutting said pile warp, said device comprising two elongated plates, spaced apart by an intermediate and adjustable plate, all of said plates when coupled together forming a spacing member for spacing the fabrics one from the other and for controlling the height of the pile warp,

a cutter blade positioned between the first named plates and forwardly of the intermediate plate, said intermediate plate forming a backing, a gage for adjusting the knife edge of the cutter blade with reference to the adjacent edges of the first named plates and to project the same therebeyond and said first named plates being coupled together by screws which pass through elongated aperturesy in the intermediate plate to provide for the adjustment of the intermediate plate with reference to said first named plates.

7. In an apparatus for weaving two fabrics joined by a pile warp, a cutter device for severing the fabrics by cutting said pile warp; said device comprising two elongated plates spaced apart by an intermediate and adjustable plate, all of said plates when coupled together forming a spacing member for spacing the fabrics one from the other and for controlling` the height ofthe pile warp, a cutter blade positioned between the first named plates and forwardly of the intermediate plate, said intermediate plate forming a backing, a gage for adjusting the knife edge of the cutter blade with reference to the adjacent edges of the first named plates and to project the same therebeyond, said first named plates being coupled together by screws which pass through elongated apertures in the intermediate plate to provide for the adjustment of the intermediate plate with reference to said first named plates, and the ends of the cutter blade projecting beyond said plates, and means coupled therewith for imparting reciprocating movement to the plate longitudinally of the first named plates of the cutter device.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name this 20th day of March, 1925.

JOACHIM GIARDINO. 

